Showing posts with label Dining. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dining. Show all posts

Friday, October 19, 2018

The Humbling Lessons of the Kitchen

There's no doubt I like to be in a kitchen. Not just now, but since growing up in a household with nearly a kitchen staff. None of them hired, yet they couldn't have taken their responsibilities more seriously if they had been. The staff consisted of my mother, her two single sisters and my Nonna who presided over the kitchen with all the seriousness of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. 
More than my siblings I loved to be in the kitchen getting into the mix. Stirring huge pots from atop a chair my aunts would have pulled up for me. Braiding cookies for dunking into espresso. Or, simply rolling out some bread dough for Sicilian sausage rolls [binulati]. There's a scar on my right foot from when at age four or five in Italy, I grabbed hold of a pan with simmering hot goat's milk for our breakfast of pane, latte e caffè [bread, milk and and coffee] an Italian breakfast still found on restaurant and hotel menus in Italy. This would be my first learning experience in the kitchen. It wouldn't be my last.
And, that's where my story begins. At this point in my life, I am a confident cook. Well, until last Wednesday evening, I had every confidence. But, alas the kitchen has the ability to humble even the most sought after chefs let alone a cook. However proficient she might imagine herself to be. You can never know everything about cooking, or the secrets of how to pull together a perfect meal. No matter how many times you have previously accomplished them. Showtime is showtime. You have to prove yourself again and again.
Last Wednesday we invited a few friends over and never in a million years would I have ever guessed what could and did go wrong. The evening was the coming together of two situations. One where a young friend of mine wanted to learn how to make my peas, mushrooms + prosciutto pasta and the other stemmed from a heartfelt desire to have some dear friends over to repay them for their previous gracious hospitality. We were to be eight for dinner. 
One of the many lessons of the evening. Make sure to start out strong appetizer/antipasti course and have a good dessert on hand because all hell may break out once the company arrives. 
You know you're in trouble when the simplest things are challenging. The two boxes of orecchiette I tried to get in one bowl to pour into the boiling pan of water went all over. But no worries two pounds was too much for eight. Another lesson always best to have more pasta on hand than one might need. 
Then, I asked Keith [who was in the weeds making Negroni's for four] to turn on the burner for the pasta. Fail! I never put any water in the covered pan. We would have made the 11pm news if I hadn't checked expecting to see boiling water. 
The evening proceeded in this way. I couldn't be relied upon to stir the pan of sautéing peas, scallions, prosciutto and mushrooms. All went flying in every direction. It was unseemly. I went out of my way to get a specific brand of prosciotto cotto con rosmarino at Gallucci's only to have it add a saltiness that was less than desirable. Thankfully, no one was getting blood work the next day. 
Frustrated also by the intermittent crunch underfoot from another orecchiette that escaped my brooms notice when I attempted clean-up.
Clearly, someone had put a hex or spell on my kitchen that night. Still nothing could have prepared me for the near disaster that lay in wait. The time had come to get the baked cod with caramelized onions and cherry tomatoes-baccala al forno into the oven. First, let me tell you about the aroma in my house that afternoon as I caramelized the onions in a white wine and butter reduction. This course would be redemption. 
Little did I know, there had been some reassembling of space in my refrigerator and my tray of secondi was now precariously resting atop some chilling wines and Champagne bottles. As I open the refrigerator door, the entire baking sheet with two premium whole fillets of panko encrusted cod siting atop perfectly caramelized onions, adorned with grape tomatoes parsley and lemon zest went sliding out of the refrigerator shelf and onto the floor. Had it not been for my young guest [experienced service industry pro] who swooped down from across the room to catch the tray and lift the parchment lined fish narrowly averting complete disaster. I've no idea who we would have called for carry-out. We did lose some tomatoes in the process but we still somehow had a secondi course. 
As I served the fish, in a state of disbelief and shock [possibly PTSD] from the evening's proceedings. I knew this would be a memorable meal. Not for its culinary success but as a bonding experience among friends. We'll laugh about the lack water in a pan that might have exploded, the utter lack of cooperation from the orrechiete, the peas and mushrooms who wouldn't stay in the pan and the fish that wasn't done swimming for some time to come. 
Throughout the night I would notice my husband and guests enjoying the evening. And, seriously what else matters. A successful evening depends more than on the sum of the parts. Much depends on the quality of your guests. Mine were complimentary, polite and overwhelmingly generous bringing us the finest wine an Amarone [on hold for our next gathering], filetto di chingale [brought back from Tuscany on a recent trip] and the loveliest floral bouquets. Ever grateful to my young friend who not only saved the cod but was everywhere that evening; serving, clearing, helping. She didn't leave until she washed all of the larger serving platters which were nearly half her weight. Not that mean people have a place at our table, but still. How wonderful to know such kind and generous people. As I looked over my photos from the evening I noticed there aren't any of the primi or secondi course. Highly unusual! But, then, so was the entire night. Made more memorable by some unusual occurrences and good friends.

Table is set

Table for eight, no waiting

Lace-cap hydrangea in a bowl

Roasted sweet red peppers and eggplant

Caramelized onions in a buttery wine reduction

Flowers from Candace + Mark's garden

Flowers found on my vanity in my bedroom when I went to bed

My hero, Candace

Antipasto

Charcuterie, if you prefer

Charcuterie, detail

Tiramisu

Thursday, October 15, 2015

Arcadian Food & Drink, Hospitality by Design

History is replete with examples of structures that were worth the time it took to build them. The Taj Mahal … the Great Pyramid of Giza … Il Duomo di Milano … the Great Wall of China. These are a few of the many shining examples of structures that took years to construct and have endured the test of time.

Nailing the artistic, practical and structural components of a building requires time. Case in point: Arcadian Food & Drink, a 100-seat restaurant (plus seating in the back-patio courtyard) located at 6416 Detroit Avenue in the Gordon Square Arts District. The space, which formerly housed the City Grill, is currently undergoing a thorough restoration/redesign/repurpose by Robert Maschke Architects. Construction has been underway for over two years and counting, and you could hear a pin drop when I asked for a projected open date. The only other question that was met with the same silence was when asked who the investor/investors is/are, silent as the grave.



Arcadian Food & Drink, outdoor signage - Photo: Robert Maschke, FAIA


Arcadian Food & Drink, exterior - Photo: Mary Sweeney


After a recent tour of the location, it is my opinion that painstaking measures have been taken to create a restaurant worthy of nomination for a James Beard Foundation Restaurant Design Award. I know of no city where this structure wouldn’t be impressive. Frankly, Cleveland is incredibly fortunate to have Arcadian Food & Drink, dare I say it, months away from opening.

Steel, glass, concrete, bamboo, Corian and leather converge to lend a sleek modern sensibility.

Arcadian Food & Drink, screens - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA


Arcadian Food & Drink, screens - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA


"Rooted in modernism, Robert Maschke Architects (RMA) seeks to create an architecture of complex spatial effects within modest means. What distinguishes RMA is the ability to turn ordinary projects into exceptional architecture. RMA views project constraints as opportunities for design. Consequently, different version of "economy"  are conceptualized and implemented in RMA's work. Gestures, materials and atmospheres are investigated for essential qualities; techniques are developed and technologies deployed resulting in experimental architecture honed specifically for each project." Robert Maschke, FAIA 

When questioned further on the "within modest means" point, Maschke, responded: "The execution may appear extremely expensive but the approach was very resourceful and much less than one might expect." Even better.

While the design has mid-century modernist roots, we are jettisoned into the future by Maschke’s use of the latest green construction methods and concepts. The kitchen, bar, bathrooms and every inch of space is designed to consume the least amount of water, power and energy. The space is divided into zones for purposes of heating and cooling. Restaurants are notorious for hot and cold spots; designated zones will help to alleviate this problem. Logistics include a well-designed vestibule entrance with an angled, pitched ground, which allows water to drain. The windows in the three-story structure open inside to facilitate maintenance. Special care was taken to design return and make-up air passages in a way that will prevent the windows from fogging. The walls consist of custom-made bamboo panels in contrasting light tan and dark brown. Some of the new banquettes are already in place, as are two bar areas. There is a two-story glass enclosed atrium that will house seasonal displays all of it just months away from completion.

Arcadian Food & Drink, vestibule entrance - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA

Arcadian Food & Drink, tan wall panel - Photo: Mary Sweeney

Arcadian Food & Drink, dark brown wall panel - Photo: Mary Sweeney


The biggest surprise upon entering Arcadian had little to do with the space. Standing next to Executive Chef Cory Hess was a familiar face, David Hridel, who was introduced to me as Arcadian's Front-of-House Manager (hardly a formal introduction). Hess  and Hridel discussed their roles and responsibilities. Hess will take on all the back-of-house responsibilities; Hridel will focus on running the dining areas. Hridel will assume both roles when Hess is offsite.

Arcadian Food & Drink, Cory Hess, Executive Chef and David Hridel, FOH Manager


Hess says, "Jeffrey Rowe will be Bar Manager, and George Hickey and Shawn Henton will be the Kitchen Managers. In addition to cocktails mixed with house-made juices and syrups, we plan to offer 12 draft beers, and four white and four red wines on-tap."  This is in keeping with their philosophy toward less waste / less bottles. 

The Menu features five “Detroit-style” pizzas. The “Plain Jane” offers the most flexibility, with a choice of tomato, garlic herb sauce and choice of cheese plus additional toppings: 
           • Cheeses: daiya mozzarella (v), fresh ricotta, brick, blue, smoked cheddar and parmesan. 
• Toppings: roasted garlic, olives, capers pickled peppers, red onion herbs, arugula, mushrooms, caramelized       onions and jalapeño peppers. 
• Proteins: bacon, pepperoni, sausage, anchovies and egg. 

If you’re not in the mood to build your own, Arcadian has designed four pizzas:
 Beef Carpaccio & Anchovies: roasted garlic, herbs, arugula, red onion, capers, aioli, egg, pickles. 
 Garlic & Herb Bread (v): roasted garlic, herbs, eve, Jacobson salt, crushed red pepper (w/marinara & garlic sauce).
 Sausage & Eggs: pickled peppers, potatoes caramelized onions, blue cheese. 
 Beets & Grapes (v): pepitas, honey, red onion, arugula, minus 8 vinegar.

Hess explains Detroit-style pizza as, "A standard lean dough, slow-fermented overnight, we then cook the pizza in pans brushed with a fat (olive oil). The result is a crispy, crunchy crust on the outside and tender inside. Toppings will be spread the entire surface of the pizza. You get bites of crispy, crunchy crust in every bite, unlike the traditional crust around the edges."

Arcadian will also offer a half-dozen cold plates, including a cheese selection (fresh ricotta, Wooster pike blue, kokoboreggo gilead and accouterments) and three salads: a seasonal salad (v,gf); a quinoa & millet salad (v,gf); a citrus salad (gf). They will also offer spicy carrot hummus (v,gf) and a crudite plate (v,gf).

Seafood selections will include raw oysters (gf), peel and eat shrimp (gf), candied salmon and smoked mussels.

There are plans for eight hot plates: tomato & turmeric soup (v,gf); cauliflower grilled cheese; fried taters (v,gf); steak-yum (v); fried chicken; Buffalo chicken grilled cheese; breakfast (local eggs, hash browns, bacon, toast, jelly, butter — also offered with a 14oz. cold-smoked ribeye option as an alternative to bacon). Sides include taters, corn muffins, slaw, soup and salad.

The menu I was given did not include prices, but Hess envisions a moderate price point that allows neighborhood residents an opportunity to enjoy Arcadian without breaking the bank.

"We have plenty of restaurants with good food in this town, but Arcadian is going to be the total experience … original in every way possible: design, food and drinks. We're in the hospitality business." Hess explains.

Arcadian Food & Drink, Cory Hess by his intelligent oven


Hridel could hardly contain his excitement, "I can't believe Cleveland is finally getting a place this f**king cool!"

indeed.

Arcadian Food & Drink, David Hridel chilling out








Arcadian Food & Drink

6416 Detroit Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44102

http://www.thearcadiancle.com/

https://twitter.com/Arcadian_cle

https://www.facebook.com/Arcadian-Food-Drink-229743297229354


Thursday, August 14, 2014

Welcome to Ninja City



Ninja City opens its doors today with a loud emphatic “kaboom!” The comic book creation that began to take shape in Bac Nguyen’s imagination in the 80s has been realized with fantastic design, brick, mortar, duct work, steel, graffiti, hip-hop music and an arcade game. It is a joint venture with business partner Dylan Fallon. The soft opening Tuesday night was frequented by many of the two partners’ pals, industry friends and family. You felt the celebratory spirit the second you walked through the door. As they say, there is no better compliment than to be respected by your peers. Everyone was happy to celebrate and witness this moment. You may already know Bac as the chef/owner of Bac Asian American Bistro & Bar in Tremont, which has been operating for four years now.

Ohio City loves Ninja City

Tremont love for Ninja City

Ninja City is a brilliant concept for the University Circle area. In the old Boarding House location — back when cream of mushroom soup (and I don’t mean oyster, chanterelles or morel mushrooms either) was considered “new and exotic.” Ninja City is actually a great example of how far we’ve come. Can you imagine how much better your college years would have been with decent ramen and comfort food? And, as an added bonus you get to enjoy it in a back-to-the future retrospective of the 80s — an amalgam of comic book, hip-hop and video games — all taking you back to a time when “Everybody was Kung fu fighting.”

Ninja City’s fun-tastic logo was designed by Aaron Sechrist, who, along with Designer Jude Goergen, are responsible for the restaurant’s successful look. As you enter from Euclid Avenue, the space is divided into two levels: the lower barroom with some high tops, and a dining room on the second level with four tops. Both areas account for about 80 seats, including the 30-seat bar. There is a garage door facing Euclid that opens up the space, weather permitting, and another 15-20 seats on the sidewalk patio. Fans and wire lighting add the perfect industrial accent, and by “industrial” I mean a factory of fun, complete with arcade game and great food and drink. As Paul Benner of Platform Brewery succinctly summarized Tuesday night, “Just enjoying some wet drinks and killer grub.”


Ninja City Soft Open 9.12.14

Ninja City Soft Open 9.12.14

Ninja City Soft Open 9.12.14

Ninja City Soft Open 9.12.14

Ninja City Soft Open 9.12.14

The fun and casual environment extends to the menu. Similar to Happy Dog and Barrio, there are menu pads to check-off your selections. In every other way, Ninja City is a full-service restaurant. There are three main divisions on the menu: Little Bites, Big Bites and Build-Your-Own Big Bites, where you build your own Banh Mi, Bowl or Buns. There are eleven Little Bite choices. They can be purchased on their own or as a build-your-own bento box combo with three or four choices. We selected a Bento Box with Spring Roll, Gyoza Dumplings, Sweet Potato Tempura Fries and Bacon Guacamole. We also shared a bowl of soul-soothing Chicken Ramen from a list of six Big Bite options and a build-your-own Banh Mi. The Chicken Ramen was all the comfort anyone could want on a cool, rainy summer night. It came layered with veggie miso broth, poached chicken breast, napa cabbage, seaweed, sesame seeds and scallions. We selected pork, cucumber, cilantro. spicy kim chi, scallions and peanuts with lime aioli for our banh mi. As we enjoyed our meal at the bar we talked to many of the guests. Our neighbors who sat to the right of us work at Porco Lounge & Tiki Room, and they graciously allowed us to photograph their eye-catching Bacon & Egg Ramen which consists of pork miso broth, smoked pork belly, fried egg, spicy kim chi, seaweed, sesame seeds and chili aioli. It’s the first thing I will order on my next visit.

Ninja City Bento Box

Ninja City Chicken Ramen

Ninja City Chicken Ramen and Banh Mi

Ninja City Banh Mi 

Ninja City Bacon & Egg Ramen

Similar to his place in Tremont, all of the selections are a fusion of Asian/American favorites. There wasn’t a missed step in the food or drinks. They’re ready to go. For his part, Bac has experience and heritage on his side: Bac’s family has been in the restaurant business in Cleveland for three generations. His grandmother was instrumental in the opening of Minh Anh and his mother is a partner of Bac in Tremont.

Ninja City’s bar list also packs a “kapow” punch thanks to Christopher Flood, Bac’s Bar Manager. The list includes some of my all-time favorites (17th Parrallel, Lychee Mojito and the Tokyo-Politan) along with some Ninja City newbies and a fine selection of beer, wine and sake. Flood says, “We are highlighting Ohio and Asian beers here.”

Ninja City 17th Parralel

Tokyo-politan and Lychee Mojito

Go and experience a unique 80s back-to-the-future dining experience. You’ll be glad you did. I don't know what the process is to become a permanent resident or citizen of Ninja City, but I’m looking into it.

Ninja City
11311 Euclid Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44106
216.860.0510

Website: http://www.ninjacity.com/

Prices: $$

Reservations Recommeded

Friday, July 25, 2014

Review: Dante, Grace Under Pressure


Dante: Grace Under Pressure

For a chef with five restaurants, Dante Boccuzzi doesn’t get rattled. Whether he’s observing plates at the pass or instructing his staff on a last-minute seating at the Chef’s Table. He’s got it covered. The logistics of running Ristorante Dante, DBA, DC Pasta, Ginko and Next Door are just not enough of a challenge for Boccuzzi. This may explain why he is putting the finishing touches on his final restaurant/concert hall, Coda—a word that means “tail” in Italian but is also used to signify the end in music.

Though I’d love to talk about the special dinners I’ve enjoyed at the Chef’s Table or at one of his special benefit dinners: “Pranzo alla Romana” for the Cleveland Italian Film Festival, or his “Feast of the Seven Fishes” that benefitted (wife and business partner) Monica Ferrari’s initiative Centro Culturale Leonardo, an Italian cultural group dedicated to the preservation of Italian culture through the study of regional cuisine, Italian language classes, and the promotion and preservation of art and culture. Instead, I’m going to focus on his seasonal menu, which is available to all diners in both dining rooms and on the patio at his flagship restaurant, Ristorante Dante.

Ferrari is from Milan. She adds a distinct flare and rigor to the restaurants, and can best be described in her native tongue as “in gamba” (on the ball/in the know) or “simpaticissima e luminosa” (likeable and bright). For his part, Boccuzzi is beyond being immersed in a culture he embodies what it means to live in one culture while manifesting distinct traits of another. His Italian heritage is easily discerned, but his cuisine is a fusion of French, Italian and Asian influences that are perfectly married and accomplished. He is also a Michelin-starred chef who has been nominated—twice—for a James Beard award in the Rising Star Chef of the Year category, and was invited to cook for the Awards this past May. He has enjoyed many more national and international accolades throughout his career.


Ristorante Dante
The space at Ristorante Dante is mostly determined by the neo-classic structure; a building that that was originally designed as a bank. They have preserved many of these striking elements on their walls, while adding some modern features like a massive chandelier from the Glass Bubble Project. The most distinctive aspect is the vault, which accommodates up to four diners. Another striking hallmark is the Art Deco clock above the bar … frequently, while I enjoy my favorite apertivo, I contemplate whether the clock is Art Deco or Arts and Crafts. All I know for certain is there is something warm and comforting about it, and the scale and placement are perfect. I have dined in each of the dining rooms over the years (and at many of the tables) but when weather permits, nothing beats al fresco dining on the patio. I would include Dante at the top of any patio listing for this city. It is a small, private oasis that feels far off the beaten track.

Aperol Spritz 
Dante’s menu is designed in a unique manner. For one thing, the orientation is horizontal rather than vertical. It is divided into three distinct sections; appetizers, first courses that include pasta, rice and polenta, and second courses such as meat, fish and vegan entrée. Each of the three groupings are broken into four more categories with two or three options in each. The menu is made even more flexible with the first course (pasta/rice/polenta) available in three sizes, which allows diners to choose them as a main course, side dish or just a taste. Or, you can combine three tastings as your entrée.

Hawaiian Tuna Tartare
One of my favorite appetizers is Hawaiian Tuna Tartare, served with a poached egg, olive caper remoulade and a crisp potato nest. The key to this dish is the quality and freshness of the tuna, and it has never been anything less then impeccable. We always include it among our selections. On our most recent visit, we noticed that another of our go-to apps—the Hamachi Sashimi (chilled soba, cucumbers, sesame ponzu)—was no longer on the summer menu. We opted for a Chilled Snow Crab Salad and we weren’t disappointed: crisp-noodles, watercress and mango sorbet complemented the huge chunks of lump crabmeat.

Chilled Snow Crab Salad

As I previously mentioned, one of the best features of the menu is the flexibility of Dante’s courses, especially when it comes to the house-made pasta, polenta and risotto options. Often we find ourselves incapable of limiting our choice to one or two and opt for a trio of tasting portions. It is difficult not to order the Linguine alla Carbonara with a poached egg and house-made pancetta or the Pappardelle Bolognese with a ragu of beef, veal and pork. On this particular occasion, we selected Spaghetti “Aimo E Nadia” with spring onions, chili and crumbled croutons. We also tried a couple of risotto selections: the Carnaroli Rice with saffron squid, rosemary and celery, and the Black Quinoa with tomato chutney and tarragon. Both excellent.

Carbonara, Pappardelle Bolognese and Carnoroli Rice

Soaghetti "Aimo E Nadia," BlackQuinoa and Papardelle Bolognese
Dante’s second courses have never disappointed either. I’ve enjoyed many fish, seafood and duck entrees over the years. However, if rabbit is on the menu there is no choice to be made. Rabbit it is. As luck would have it, there it was. This dish was so decadent and hearty it would be my idea for a harvest dinner in the fall or a comforting winter repast. Three of us feasted on the perfectly roasted rabbit with au jus served with buttery, house-made gnocchi that were as light and delicate as feathers. Fabulous! Rabbit is not as prevalent in these parts as I would like, but with dishes like this it won’t be long before Boccuzzi cultivates a following. His version is a ringing endorsement for rabbit if ever there was one.


Coniglio Arrostito
We simply did not save room for dessert. Although, desserts are such a major feature at his Chef’sTable and special dinners that I can say with confidence, if you enjoy desserts, dolce lovers won’t be disappointed, whether it’s gelato, a decadent torte or a combination of both. Dante puts as much thought and artistry into his desserts as any other course.

On this particular evening, Phil Hockey, Dante’s affable, capable Front of the House Manager, sent over some Barolo Chinato – a fortified wine that originates from Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region. Originally, Barolo Chinato was used for medicinal purposes, to combat fever and upset stomachs. It has long been enjoyed as an after-dinner digestivo. Dante offers an extensive wine list. My go tos have become their Docetto D’Alba or the house Zephyr but it is hard to avoid their list of expertly mixed cocktails.


Barolo Chinato

Ristorante Dante is a fantastic choice regardless of the occasion. They offer a fantastic Happy Hour Monday through Friday from 4:30 pm to 6:30 pm. We were there recently and enjoyed Edamame, Togarashi French Fries, a Sushi Pop and Miso Mussels. We also feasted on three of Dante’s four Happy Hour Toban Yakis— steaming hot meat and veggie dishes roasted on ceramic plates—which include Vegetarian / Mushrooms, Canadian Salmon, Pork Belly and Hanger Steak. 



Toban Yaki - Vegetarian/Mushrooms

Toban Yaki - Hanger Steak

Toban Yaki - Canadian Salmon
As if this weren’t enough, Boccuzzi also offers Late Night Noodles. Recently, Dante’s ramen noodle bowl was named one of the best in the country. Landing on Thrillist’s ”21 Best Ramen in the Country” list. All Late Night Noodles come with nori, poached egg, pork belly, mustard greens, shiitake and cabbage. Your options are size: half-bowl ($5) or full-bowl ($9); noodle: Ramen, Soba, Somen or Udon; and broth: Beef, Miso, Pork or Shoyu. These late night noodle bowls are sure to please anyone looking for a cost-efficient, warm bowl of comfort.

Late Night Noodles - Half Bowl Udon - Beef 


Ristorante Dante
2247 Professor Avenue
Cleveland, OH  44113
(216) 274-1200

Website: danteboccuzzi.com/dante-tremont

Prices: $$$

Reservations recommended