Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner

Arcadian Food & Drink has been open for little over three months and we have enjoyed some memorable dinners there in that short time. From the seafood tower and caviar tasting before a Joe Jackson concert to a simple break for a pizza and some tempting happy hour turkey wings. One of its greatest features is a flexible menu that allows for nearly every occasion (not to mention the most reasonable price on a bottle Dom Perignon in the 216). The versatile, well-planned menu also attempts to address the Gordon Square area's disparate incomes as it continues to grow as an entertainment district. There is an early and late night happy hour, and some well-priced Detroit-style pizza and fried chicken on the regular menu. This week, we discovered they can also deliver a flawless prix fixe cocktail dinner.

Caviar Tasting 

Seafood Tower

Oysters Rockefeller 

Happy Hour Turkey Wings 

In celebration of  “Cocktail Week Cleveland,” Arcadian collaborated with OYO Middle West Spirits. Thomas Haywood presented OYO’s product in a knowledgeable and entertaining manner. Jeffrey Rowe, Arcadian’s Bar Manager, and Erica Coffee created five imaginative cocktails that took OYO’s spirits to new heights. In the kitchen, Rebecca Hess, Chef de Cuisine, and her staff provided a menu with complementary flavors. The result was a cohesive, well-paired cocktail dinner. Most restaurants can do some fine improvisational special dinners. We’ve been to many over the years; generally they will only offer the special menu for the evening. On this Wednesday evening, Arcadian offered this special dinner on their second floor while serving their regular menu on the first. Running both through one kitchen can be challenging. They rose to the occasion: our dinner was exceptional, the pairings were creative, and the value [$50 per], quality and service were indisputable.

OYO Middle West Spirits - Photo: Thomas Haywood

To get things underway, an “amuse booze” consisting of prosecco, OYO Stone Fruit Vodka, Carpano Bianco and Lemon Falernum Gelee greeted us as we were seated. The fresh lavender and thyme sprigs lent the perfect herbal notes to this finely crafted, albeit potent, aperitif. 

Amuse Booze - Photo: Thomas Haywood

The mood in the room was already festive as the Smoked Mussel Shooter came out with a couple of flawless smoked mussels along with a light, crispy, slightly salty cracker. The pairing with OYO Un-Aged Rye Whiskey, herb-infused Dolin Dry, squash and yellow pepper, was not only a complement to the briny appetizer but a new riff on the classic Bloody Mary.

Smoked Mussel Shooter 

A rich, velvety course of scrambled eggs, oyster and caviar followed. The crispy fried oyster and those creamy eggs married beautifully. I was excited to hear that this dish will be available on their regular menu and brunch menus by month’s end. I look forward to enjoying it again soon. The companion cocktail may have been my favorite of the evening, but that’s bound to happen when a drink includes vodka, limoncello, spiced Carpano Bianco and tantalizing smoked olives.

Scrambled Eggs, Oyster, Caviar

OYO Vodka, Limoncello, Spiced Carpano Bianco, smoked olives 

An area where I’ve always felt our local culinary scene could stand some improvement is in the availability of fresh pasta. The garganelli that were served in the clam garganelli, anchovy and bacon dish were reminiscent of the delicate, light pastas I’ve enjoyed in Italy. The genius of this briny dish was that it wasn’t overwhelmed by either the anchovy or bacon — two strong ingredients deftly kept in check to buoy the clams rather than sink them. The paired cocktail’s charred lemon, barrel-aged maple syrup and cider soothed the dark OYO Pumpernickel Rye, creating a perfect layering of flavors and viscosity. 

Clam Garganelli Anchovie, Bacon 

OYO Dark Pumpernickel Rye, Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup, charred lemon, Bent Ladder Heirloom Cider 

The pork shank, spaetzle and fennel was undeniably a salute to the coming fall season — as warm and comforting as a favorite sweater. The expertly braised pork was fork-tender and had a luxurious texture. Author Calvin Trillin once wrote that Thanksgiving should be about eating your favorite dish. He insisted he would be more thankful if he could enjoy his favorite Chinese carry-out instead. There is no question that Arcadian’s pork shank dish would be my choice this year. A Germanic-style osso bucco for pork. It too will be on their regular menu soon. The complementary cocktail only enhanced the autumnal aesthetic. If the pork was a comfortable sweater than the cocktail was the perfect pair of warm, suede boots. OYO Wheat Whiskey added a smooth, creamy texture to the Fernet Branca and the roasted pecan-apple shrub. They could probably sell those savory "Arcadian" crackers alongside the crisps served with the first course. They were addicting at first bite.

Pork Shank, Spaetzle, Fennel Photo: Leo Jeffries

OYO 'Oloroso' Wheat Whiskey, Fernet Branca Roasted Pecan-Apple Shrub

This is when you actually want a devil tending to every detail, like a savory cracker with an “A” for “Arcadian.” Especially when the devil is CIA-trained Erica Coffee who lent some creative assistance to the menu too. She saved her best for last: her butterscotch pumpkin cake was the perfect finish, served with a potent blend of OYO Barrel Aged Honey Vanilla Vodka, chai tea, whipped cream and nutmeg. Butterscotch is one of the first "American" flavors I was captivated by when I came from Italy at age five. It did not disappoint here. The pumpkin married with the butterscotch, enhancing it with rich sweet overtones. 

Butterscotch Pumpkin Cake

OYO Barrel-Aged Honey Vanilla Vodka, chai tea, whipped cream, nutmeg 

All in all, it was a splendid evening, pulled off by a talented team of professionals both in the kitchen and behind the bar, featuring great product — not the least of which were the OYO Whiskeys and Vodkas. Each course was better than the last and there were no weak links. It is no wonder that Arcadian Food and Drink has become another favorite refuge.

Our consummate host, David Hridel

From L to R, Rebecca Hess, Chef de Cuisine; Matt Snyder Sous Chef; David Hridel, FOH Manager; Tanasha Robertson; Erica Coffee; Thomas Haywood, Middle West Spirits Rep; Alyssa Murray; Alfonso Cody; Sadly missing is Jeffrey Rowe, Bar & Beverage Manager [someone has to keep serving the bar] - Photo: Leo Jeffries

Thomas Haywood Middle West Spirits Rep - Photo: Leo Jeffries

Arcadian Food & Drink, Hospitality by Design

History is replete with examples of structures that were worth the time it took to build them. The Taj Mahal … the Great Pyramid of Giza … Il Duomo di Milano … the Great Wall of China. These are a few of the many shining examples of structures that took years to construct and have endured the test of time.

Nailing the artistic, practical and structural components of a building requires time. Case in point: Arcadian Food & Drink, a 100-seat restaurant (plus seating in the back-patio courtyard) located at 6416 Detroit Avenue in the Gordon Square Arts District. The space, which formerly housed the City Grill, is currently undergoing a thorough restoration/redesign/repurpose by Robert Maschke Architects. Construction has been underway for over two years and counting, and you could hear a pin drop when I asked for a projected open date. The only other question that was met with the same silence was when asked who the investor/investors is/are, silent as the grave.

Arcadian Food & Drink, outdoor signage - Photo: Robert Maschke, FAIA

Arcadian Food & Drink, exterior - Photo: Mary Sweeney

After a recent tour of the location, it is my opinion that painstaking measures have been taken to create a restaurant worthy of nomination for a James Beard Foundation Restaurant Design Award. I know of no city where this structure wouldn’t be impressive. Frankly, Cleveland is incredibly fortunate to have Arcadian Food & Drink, dare I say it, months away from opening.

Steel, glass, concrete, bamboo, Corian and leather converge to lend a sleek modern sensibility.

Arcadian Food & Drink, screens - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA

Arcadian Food & Drink, screens - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA

"Rooted in modernism, Robert Maschke Architects (RMA) seeks to create an architecture of complex spatial effects within modest means. What distinguishes RMA is the ability to turn ordinary projects into exceptional architecture. RMA views project constraints as opportunities for design. Consequently, different version of "economy"  are conceptualized and implemented in RMA's work. Gestures, materials and atmospheres are investigated for essential qualities; techniques are developed and technologies deployed resulting in experimental architecture honed specifically for each project." Robert Maschke, FAIA 

When questioned further on the "within modest means" point, Maschke, responded: "The execution may appear extremely expensive but the approach was very resourceful and much less than one might expect." Even better.

While the design has mid-century modernist roots, we are jettisoned into the future by Maschke’s use of the latest green construction methods and concepts. The kitchen, bar, bathrooms and every inch of space is designed to consume the least amount of water, power and energy. The space is divided into zones for purposes of heating and cooling. Restaurants are notorious for hot and cold spots; designated zones will help to alleviate this problem. Logistics include a well-designed vestibule entrance with an angled, pitched ground, which allows water to drain. The windows in the three-story structure open inside to facilitate maintenance. Special care was taken to design return and make-up air passages in a way that will prevent the windows from fogging. The walls consist of custom-made bamboo panels in contrasting light tan and dark brown. Some of the new banquettes are already in place, as are two bar areas. There is a two-story glass enclosed atrium that will house seasonal displays all of it just months away from completion.

Arcadian Food & Drink, vestibule entrance - Photo: Robert Maschke FAIA

Arcadian Food & Drink, tan wall panel - Photo: Mary Sweeney

Arcadian Food & Drink, dark brown wall panel - Photo: Mary Sweeney

The biggest surprise upon entering Arcadian had little to do with the space. Standing next to Executive Chef Cory Hess was a familiar face, David Hridel, who was introduced to me as Arcadian's Front-of-House Manager (hardly a formal introduction). Hess  and Hridel discussed their roles and responsibilities. Hess will take on all the back-of-house responsibilities; Hridel will focus on running the dining areas. Hridel will assume both roles when Hess is offsite.

Arcadian Food & Drink, Cory Hess, Executive Chef and David Hridel, FOH Manager

Hess says, "Jeffrey Rowe will be Bar Manager, and George Hickey and Shawn Henton will be the Kitchen Managers. In addition to cocktails mixed with house-made juices and syrups, we plan to offer 12 draft beers, and four white and four red wines on-tap."  This is in keeping with their philosophy toward less waste / less bottles. 

The Menu features five “Detroit-style” pizzas. The “Plain Jane” offers the most flexibility, with a choice of tomato, garlic herb sauce and choice of cheese plus additional toppings: 

           • Cheeses: daiya mozzarella (v), fresh ricotta, brick, blue, smoked cheddar and parmesan. 

• Toppings: roasted garlic, olives, capers pickled peppers, red onion herbs, arugula, mushrooms, caramelized       onions and jalapeño peppers. 

• Proteins: bacon, pepperoni, sausage, anchovies and egg. 

If you’re not in the mood to build your own, Arcadian has designed four pizzas:

• Beef Carpaccio & Anchovies: roasted garlic, herbs, arugula, red onion, capers, aioli, egg, pickles. 

• Garlic & Herb Bread (v): roasted garlic, herbs, eve, Jacobson salt, crushed red pepper (w/marinara & garlic sauce).

• Sausage & Eggs: pickled peppers, potatoes caramelized onions, blue cheese. 

• Beets & Grapes (v): pepitas, honey, red onion, arugula, minus 8 vinegar.

Hess explains Detroit-style pizza as, "A standard lean dough, slow-fermented overnight, we then cook the pizza in pans brushed with a fat (olive oil). The result is a crispy, crunchy crust on the outside and tender inside. Toppings will be spread the entire surface of the pizza. You get bites of crispy, crunchy crust in every bite, unlike the traditional crust around the edges."

Arcadian will also offer a half-dozen cold plates, including a cheese selection (fresh ricotta, Wooster pike blue, kokoboreggo gilead and accouterments) and three salads: a seasonal salad (v,gf); a quinoa & millet salad (v,gf); a citrus salad (gf). They will also offer spicy carrot hummus (v,gf) and a crudite plate (v,gf).

Seafood selections will include raw oysters (gf), peel and eat shrimp (gf), candied salmon and smoked mussels.

There are plans for eight hot plates: tomato & turmeric soup (v,gf); cauliflower grilled cheese; fried taters (v,gf); steak-yum (v); fried chicken; Buffalo chicken grilled cheese; breakfast (local eggs, hash browns, bacon, toast, jelly, butter — also offered with a 14oz. cold-smoked ribeye option as an alternative to bacon). Sides include taters, corn muffins, slaw, soup and salad.

The menu I was given did not include prices, but Hess envisions a moderate price point that allows neighborhood residents an opportunity to enjoy Arcadian without breaking the bank.

"We have plenty of restaurants with good food in this town, but Arcadian is going to be the total experience … original in every way possible: design, food and drinks. We're in the hospitality business." Hess explains.

Arcadian Food & Drink, Cory Hess by his intelligent oven

Hridel could hardly contain his excitement, "I can't believe Cleveland is finally getting a place this f**king cool!"

indeed.

Arcadian Food & Drink, David Hridel chilling out

   

Arcadian Food & Drink

6416 Detroit Avenue
Cleveland, OH 44102

http://www.thearcadiancle.com/

https://twitter.com/Arcadian_cle

https://www.facebook.com/Arcadian-Food-Drink-229743297229354

Cory Hess’s Arcadian: A Neighborhood Restaurant

For the past two years, Chef Cory Hess has been working out the details for Gordon Square Art District’s latest dining destination, Arcadian Food & Drink, located at 6416 Detroit Avenue. “The name works for me on many levels. Arcadia is a word from Greek Mythology meaning ‘utopia.’ Arcadian is in close proximity to the Gordon Square Arcade, and we will have some arcade games along the wall on the first floor.” An updated pizza parlor, Arcadian is Hess’s “version of paradise through a modernized 90s corner pizza joint. It’s the type of place that encourages sharing and conversing, where quality food is served with a smile in a welcoming, communal environment.” To that end, a large communal table is a focal point on the street level. Several times throughout our afternoon together, Hess mentioned the importance of creating a restaurant where those who live in the area can afford to patronize it several times a week if they like; a neighborhood place. He had no interest in creating a place for the exclusive use of suburbanites. “I want it to be a friendly place – the kind of place I would like to hang out at after work,” Hess said. The more he explained his vision, the more I was struck by the notion that the restaurant business is a young person’s profession.

Cory Hess, with the boarded up Arcadian in the background

With the help of Robert Maschke Architects and the financial backing of a silent partner (trust me, silent as the grave on this point), Hess is transforming the old City Grill into a spectacular location: a three-story structure with large floor to ceiling windows making up most of the exterior facade. Hess describes Maschke’s aesthetic as being heavily influenced by Frank Lloyd Wright, and his work as “meticulous in detail and timeless in his designs.” Perhaps the greatest transformation will be the conversion from dark to light. In addition to the predominance of glass in the front of the building, natural light will filter through a two-story glass enclosed foyer with a green wall in the center of the room that will be exposed to the elements. Hess is quick to add they intend to have a Christmas Tree on display during the Christmas season. He also went on to explain, “the first year, the work mainly centered around clearing the space of old equipment. Layers were stripped away. Then, we began the process of making the space structurally sound for the build-out and new design. We’re hoping for an October open.” Unfortunately, the day I was there, work came to a complete halt due to the intense afternoon heat inside. There’s no air conditioning yet and little light or ventilation inside the boarded-up structure.

Cory Hess, Interior, Arcadian - street level

The plan for the first level is to have a lively pub atmosphere. People walking past on the sidewalk will have a full view of the pizza ovens and most of the lower level. The bar will seat 20 to 25, with seating for 15 or 20 more on couches in the lounge area and 12 to 16 more at the communal table. The second-level dining room will accommodate between 30 and 35 diners. It will be the perfect sanctuary for those looking for a more private dining experience. The lowest level will mainly be used as a prep room, and will include freezers, a walk-in cooler, employee area and an office.

The past two years have also provided Hess with the time to develop his menu, his business philosophy and an overall plan to bring it to fruition.

 

His menu is divided into three columns and begins with “Seafood” – a selection of raw oysters and chilled fish, including shrimp and smoked Buffalo fish, oysters and mussels. Offering oysters is a way for Hess to reinforce the inexpensive choices on his menu. He adds, “historically, oysters have been an affordable seafood option but they also reinforce the shared dining experience. You tend to share an order of oysters with your friends at a bar or table.” This communal theme is repeated throughout the menu. “Shared Bar Snacks” include vegan and vegetarian options. “We’ll have a separate fryer exclusively dedicated to vegan menu offerings,” says Hess. They will also take every step to ensure there is no cross contamination.

Nothing says, “shared dining experience” like pizza. It’s no coincidence that the center column of the menu showcases seven pizzas with three categories of toppings. Hess describes the pizza as “square ‘Detroit Style’ pies that will be cooked in Ohio-made Bolling Pizza Ovens.” The “Fish Bait” pizza immediately caught my eye. It includes white anchovies, capers, goat cheese, olive oil, parsley, roasted garlic and leek. An intriguing option for Tex-Mex lovers is the “Nacho Libre,” with chorizo, jalapeno, smoked cheddar, red onion, sour cream, cilantro and smoked tomato. And I know there will be times when nothing but the “Wake & Bake” will do – a pie with hickory smoked bacon, local eggs, potatoes, pepper and provolone. Hopefully, we’ll get an opportunity to sample them all in the near future.

The third column on the menu focuses on “Plates.” First, there are two appetizers: “Hummus” and “Dinosaur Wings” (turkey), along with a couple of salads. “Trays” include some curiously funny offerings: the “Knuckle Sandwich” with beef knuckle and “Steak-um,” a vegan offering made with seitan subbing for steak. And finally, “Desserts,” include house-made pies, lemon ice and he hopes to source a cookie dough ice cream sandwich (consisting of two layers of cookie dough with ice cream center) from Mason’s Creamery.

Arcadian's Menu, a work in progress

Hess plans to add brunch service soon after the open and is also debating whether or not Sunday supper may not be a good idea and in keeping with his communal dining theme. A theme that will be reiterated at Arcadian’s bar as well, with carafes of punch, Bloody Mary, wine, pitchers of beer, etc., all in an effort to emphasize the experience of sharing food with friends. Come to think of it, aren’t food and friends the basis for most fond memories?

What is most impressive about Hess is his extensive résumé. He has worked at some of the best restaurants in northeast Ohio and in Columbus, and has more culinary training and education than his age would suggest. Those experiences have greatly influenced his menu and his philosophies as a chef. He began his career at Don’s Pomeroy House in Strongsville. Later, he was Prep Cook/Line Cook at Blue Point Grille (where he learned to shuck oysters – lots and lots of oysters) and Line Cook at Handke’s Cuisine, where he learned so many of the basics and fundamentals, including that there’s more to life than trying to run a perfect kitchen. More recently, he was Sous Chef at Lola on East Fourth Street, Executive Chef at Bistro at Lincoln Park and Line Cook/Kitchen Manager at Bar Symon, where he met Rebecca Traxler, his significant other/soon to be fiancé. Traxler grew up on a blueberry farm and is currently Sous Chef at Urban Farmer, the new steak house in The Westin, Downtown. Previously, she worked at Spice Kitchen & Bar. Together, they’re active participants in the local farm-to-table scene and are involved in Kentucky Gardens a community garden next to Fairview Park in Ohio City.

Hess’s education includes a year at the prestigious Johnson and Wales University, a Culinary Arts/Chef Training Certificate from Polaris Career Center and a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Hospitality Administration/Management from Kent State University.

“You can be the best chef in the world, but until you understand the numbers and can make it work as a business, you can’t get anywhere.” Hess also said the only way to make it in this business is to rely on others. He has been overwhelmed by the amount of people who have picked up the phone to offer their congratulations and assistance. Hess believes in the Buddhist teaching that says, “no one goes anywhere on their own.” Incorporating this in his business plan he has thought long and hard about how to get his workers to realize their dreams while he achieves his. He prefers to measure success by the number of people he can help.

It is no wonder then there is someone willing to invest so heavily in this impressive young talent. For me, this year, Fall cannot come soon enough.

Maschke Architects, Exterior Plan - Arcadian Food & Drink

Photos of Chef Cory Hess taken by Dale Dong