Review: Dante, Grace Under Pressure

Dante: Grace Under Pressure

For a chef with five restaurants, Dante Boccuzzi doesn’t get rattled. Whether he’s observing plates at the pass or instructing his staff on a last-minute seating at the Chef’s Table. He’s got it covered. The logistics of running Ristorante Dante, DBA, DC Pasta, Ginko and Next Door are just not enough of a challenge for Boccuzzi. This may explain why he is putting the finishing touches on his final restaurant/concert hall, Coda—a word that means “tail” in Italian but is also used to signify the end in music.

Though I’d love to talk about the special dinners I’ve enjoyed at the Chef’s Table or at one of his special benefit dinners: “Pranzo alla Romana” for the Cleveland Italian Film Festival, or his “Feast of the Seven Fishes” that benefitted (wife and business partner) Monica Ferrari’s initiative Centro Culturale Leonardo, an Italian cultural group dedicated to the preservation of Italian culture through the study of regional cuisine, Italian language classes, and the promotion and preservation of art and culture. Instead, I’m going to focus on his seasonal menu, which is available to all diners in both dining rooms and on the patio at his flagship restaurant, Ristorante Dante.

Ferrari is from Milan. She adds a distinct flare and rigor to the restaurants, and can best be described in her native tongue as “in gamba” (on the ball/in the know) or “simpaticissima e luminosa” (likeable and bright). For his part, Boccuzzi is beyond being immersed in a culture he embodies what it means to live in one culture while manifesting distinct traits of another. His Italian heritage is easily discerned, but his cuisine is a fusion of French, Italian and Asian influences that are perfectly married and accomplished. He is also a Michelin-starred chef who has been nominated—twice—for a James Beard award in the Rising Star Chef of the Year category, and was invited to cook for the Awards this past May. He has enjoyed many more national and international accolades throughout his career.

Ristorante Dante

The space at Ristorante Dante is mostly determined by the neo-classic structure; a building that that was originally designed as a bank. They have preserved many of these striking elements on their walls, while adding some modern features like a massive chandelier from the Glass Bubble Project. The most distinctive aspect is the vault, which accommodates up to four diners. Another striking hallmark is the Art Deco clock above the bar … frequently, while I enjoy my favorite apertivo, I contemplate whether the clock is Art Deco or Arts and Crafts. All I know for certain is there is something warm and comforting about it, and the scale and placement are perfect. I have dined in each of the dining rooms over the years (and at many of the tables) but when weather permits, nothing beats al fresco dining on the patio. I would include Dante at the top of any patio listing for this city. It is a small, private oasis that feels far off the beaten track.

Aperol Spritz 

Dante’s menu is designed in a unique manner. For one thing, the orientation is horizontal rather than vertical. It is divided into three distinct sections; appetizers, first courses that include pasta, rice and polenta, and second courses such as meat, fish and vegan entrée. Each of the three groupings are broken into four more categories with two or three options in each. The menu is made even more flexible with the first course (pasta/rice/polenta) available in three sizes, which allows diners to choose them as a main course, side dish or just a taste. Or, you can combine three tastings as your entrée.

Hawaiian Tuna Tartare

One of my favorite appetizers is Hawaiian Tuna Tartare, served with a poached egg, olive caper remoulade and a crisp potato nest. The key to this dish is the quality and freshness of the tuna, and it has never been anything less then impeccable. We always include it among our selections. On our most recent visit, we noticed that another of our go-to apps—the Hamachi Sashimi (chilled soba, cucumbers, sesame ponzu)—was no longer on the summer menu. We opted for a Chilled Snow Crab Salad and we weren’t disappointed: crisp-noodles, watercress and mango sorbet complemented the huge chunks of lump crabmeat.

Chilled Snow Crab Salad

As I previously mentioned, one of the best features of the menu is the flexibility of Dante’s courses, especially when it comes to the house-made pasta, polenta and risotto options. Often we find ourselves incapable of limiting our choice to one or two and opt for a trio of tasting portions. It is difficult not to order the Linguine alla Carbonara with a poached egg and house-made pancetta or the Pappardelle Bolognese with a ragu of beef, veal and pork. On this particular occasion, we selected Spaghetti “Aimo E Nadia” with spring onions, chili and crumbled croutons. We also tried a couple of risotto selections: the Carnaroli Rice with saffron squid, rosemary and celery, and the Black Quinoa with tomato chutney and tarragon. Both excellent.

Carbonara, Pappardelle Bolognese and Carnoroli Rice

Soaghetti "Aimo E Nadia," BlackQuinoa and Papardelle Bolognese

Dante’s second courses have never disappointed either. I’ve enjoyed many fish, seafood and duck entrees over the years. However, if rabbit is on the menu there is no choice to be made. Rabbit it is. As luck would have it, there it was. This dish was so decadent and hearty it would be my idea for a harvest dinner in the fall or a comforting winter repast. Three of us feasted on the perfectly roasted rabbit with au jus served with buttery, house-made gnocchi that were as light and delicate as feathers. Fabulous! Rabbit is not as prevalent in these parts as I would like, but with dishes like this it won’t be long before Boccuzzi cultivates a following. His version is a ringing endorsement for rabbit if ever there was one.

Coniglio Arrostito

We simply did not save room for dessert. Although, desserts are such a major feature at his Chef’sTable and special dinners that I can say with confidence, if you enjoy desserts, dolce lovers won’t be disappointed, whether it’s gelato, a decadent torte or a combination of both. Dante puts as much thought and artistry into his desserts as any other course.

On this particular evening, Phil Hockey, Dante’s affable, capable Front of the House Manager, sent over some Barolo Chinato – a fortified wine that originates from Italy’s northwestern Piedmont region. Originally, Barolo Chinato was used for medicinal purposes, to combat fever and upset stomachs. It has long been enjoyed as an after-dinner digestivo. Dante offers an extensive wine list. My go tos have become their Docetto D’Alba or the house Zephyr but it is hard to avoid their list of expertly mixed cocktails.

Barolo Chinato

Ristorante Dante is a fantastic choice regardless of the occasion. They offer a fantastic Happy Hour Monday through Friday from 4:30 pm to 6:30 pm. We were there recently and enjoyed Edamame, Togarashi French Fries, a Sushi Pop and Miso Mussels. We also feasted on three of Dante’s four Happy Hour Toban Yakis— steaming hot meat and veggie dishes roasted on ceramic plates—which include Vegetarian / Mushrooms, Canadian Salmon, Pork Belly and Hanger Steak. 

Toban Yaki - Vegetarian/Mushrooms

Toban Yaki - Hanger Steak

Toban Yaki - Canadian Salmon

As if this weren’t enough, Boccuzzi also offers Late Night Noodles. Recently, Dante’s ramen noodle bowl was named one of the best in the country. Landing on Thrillist’s ”21 Best Ramen in the Country” list. All Late Night Noodles come with nori, poached egg, pork belly, mustard greens, shiitake and cabbage. Your options are size: half-bowl ($5) or full-bowl ($9); noodle: Ramen, Soba, Somen or Udon; and broth: Beef, Miso, Pork or Shoyu. These late night noodle bowls are sure to please anyone looking for a cost-efficient, warm bowl of comfort.

Late Night Noodles - Half Bowl Udon - Beef 

Ristorante Dante
2247 Professor Avenue
Cleveland, OH  44113
(216) 274-1200

Website: danteboccuzzi.com/dante-tremont

Prices: $$$

Reservations recommended

Review: Spice Kitchen & Bar: Beating the Odds

Chef/Owner Ben Bebenroth – along with Chef Nate Williams and former Executive Chef Brandon Walukas – have overcome the odds and triumphed in a spot that was plagued with problems. While Spice Kitchen & Bar is supported by other revenue streams, including Spice of Life Catering Co. and their on-location Plated Landscapes dinners, the restaurant itself has become the destination. Effervescent Bar Manager David Hridel is in constant motion – mixing cocktails, offering suggestions about daily specials and attending to the six-or-so tables in Spice’s lively, friendly bar.

Chef/Owner Ben Bebenroth

One late spring evening, we decided to drop by Spice for dinner before a concert at the State Theatre and we couldn’t have made a better choice (love it when you can describe what you have a taste for and the bartender can improvise). I explained that I wanted something light, acidic and fruity. Hridel invented a drink that should be a seasonal special – an expertly mixed cocktail where the sweetness of the berries and the sour of the lemon were perfectly balanced. Sweet but not cloying. The concoction – which he served over crushed ice in a Collins glass – consisted of farm-fresh strawberries, lemon, just the right amount of simple syrup and vodka. Essentially, it was a perfect, potent strawberry-lemonade.

 Strawberry Lemonade + A Draft 

We kept it light for appetizers, selecting two vegetarian options. One was on their Happy Hour menu – a stuffed avocado with chickpeas, sprouts, grilled oranges, crispy red quinoa and  almondona dressing. I have never been a quinoa fan, but they made it palatable: it was sautéed to a nice, crunchy texture (this is how quinoa should be prepared). The complex flavors and richness of the avocado make this dish work.

Happy Hour Stuffed Avocado

The second appetizer was on the Daily Specials Board: the Foragers Plate – chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms, butter-fried croutons, shaved asparagus and pea shoot salad, champagne vinaigrette, toasted fennel & beet, avocado oil. Again: wonderful balance. The chicken-of-the-woods mushrooms were the stars of this dish, but I can’t say enough about the exquisite beet avocado oil that finished the salad.

Foragers Plate

Here’s where my dinner companion and I went our separate ways. He decided to order (our favorite) chickpea fries served with Spice’s spicy rémoulade and the Happy Hour chicken wings with lemongrass-ginger hot sauce.

Chick Pea Fries with spicy remoulade 

Happy Hour Chicken Wings

I decided on a new spring house-made pasta dish. I was in Mushroom Pappardelle heaven. The pappardelle were handmade by Chef Nate Williams. Fabulous ribbons with delicate taste and texture. The layering of flavors: mushrooms, beans, creme fraiche in a delicate flavorful vegetable stock made it taste like springtime on a plate.

Mushroom Pappardelle

To accompany my pasta, I relied on Hridel’s expertise again, and again he steered me in the right direction. He recommended a perfectly crisp, slightly acidic white – a Vermentino di Sardegna – to complement my pasta. I enjoyed its intense, fruity aroma, fresh flavor and clean finish.

Vermentino di Sardegna

For dessert, I went back to the cocktail menu, since something I noticed earlier had piqued my interest –Aperol and grapefruit soda. The drink – named Just a Question of Thyme – combines Boodles Gin, Aperol, grapefruit soda, thyme and thyme syrup. It was a perfect finish to a diverse, flavor-rich dining experience.

Just a Question of Thyme

We departed satisfied and ready for Mr. Beck Hansen.

Spice Kitchen & Bar is located at: 5800 Detroit Ave, Cleveland, OH 44102 Phone: 216. 961.9637

Prices: Moderate $$

Reservations recommended

http://spicekitchenandbar.com/

Genesis of The Spotted Owl

Entering a space that is nearing completion can feel like treading on someone’s dream. In this case, the dream is about to come true. All the painstaking details — concept, design and build-out — will soon yield to logistics and operation.  

Will Hollingsworth, an affable, young bartender whom you may know from his days behind the bar at Lolita, has obsessed over his new establishment for years, since 2011 to be exact. He sought the advice of veteran (now-retired) adman-turned-restaurateur, Alan Glazen. Glazen not only advised Hollingsworth but hooked him up with four investment partners.

As Hollingsworth greeted us, he introduced us to Jeffrey Eizember who, along with Jonathan Sin-Jin Satayathum, is responsible for actualizing Architect Rick Lalli’s plans. “We think this is where livestock was kept a century ago,” said Hollingsworth, respectful of the newly remodeled space. The naturally seasoned brickwork, stonewalls and dirt floors provide the ultimate backdrop for his concept. Hollingsworth, Eizember and Satayathum have reconciled the past while giving The Spotted Owl the promise of a vibrant future. We visited the space after sundown at Hollingsworth's suggestion, to experience the lighting and drink in the ambience before any libations are served.

The Gothic arched doorway introduces monastic elements that lend a palpable authenticity and spirituality that permeate the space. There are five distinct areas within the Spotted Owl that flow together in an open floor plan. Pointing out the colonial blue as the foundation of the plank wood adorning walls and bar, Hollingsworth said “I want people to think they’re in a bar from George Washington’s era,” eagerly adding, “the glassware is French — the finest glassware for commercial use.” He went on to exuberantly explain every detail. We are, after all, talking about a young hipster who appreciates a fine pair of handmade Italian loafers. Hooks, latches and hinges have all been selected to emphasize the raw, minimalist warmth The Spotted Owl exudes.

“We will have a flatscreen, but not behind the bar. It won’t be the focus — there’s something special planned for behind the bar. But we do live in Cleveland and I want this to be the place people gather and come together for unifying events like elections, sports or special screenings,” said Hollingsworth. Most of the materials that make up the interior decor have been reclaimed and repurposed. It turns out that a weatherworn wooden floor from a central Ohio barn is not only a suitable surface for the bar and tabletops, but — as Hollingsworth explained — he is excited to be using a material that has distressed naturally as opposed to a surface that is made to look distressed.

The bar will serve a list of unique, inventive cocktails including a selection of house-special Manhattans, along with a distinctive shortlist of beers and wines. “We’re not looking to have ‘the most' of anything; we want a well-executed list of libations that will become our cornerstone,” said Hollingsworth. “We have seating for 60. We’ll have someone just inside the door monitoring the flow, and taking names and contact info once we’re at capacity. I want to give everyone the same quality of service and allow them to enjoy the experience.” 

The Spotted Owl is located in Tremont, at 710 Jefferson Avenue, on the lower level of the Union Gospel Press Building — a structure that was constructed over the course of 50 years beginning in 1850. Originally the location for the short-lived “Cleveland University,” it became a printing press for religious publications.

The Spotted Owl - Entrance

The Spotted Owl - Interior Detail

The Spotted Owl - Lighting 

The Spotted Owl - Doors for Tables

The Spotted Owl - Floor for Tabletop

The Spotted Owl - Bar