Amalgamato: The Humbling Lessons of the Kitchen

Amalgamato: The Humbling Lessons of the Kitchen: There's no doubt I like to be in a kitchen. Not just now, but since growing up in a household with nearly a kitchen staff. None of them...

The Humbling Lessons of the Kitchen

There's no doubt I like to be in a kitchen. Not just now, but since growing up in a household with nearly a kitchen staff. None of them hired, yet they couldn't have taken their responsibilities more seriously if they had been. The staff consisted of my mother, her two single sisters and my Nonna who presided over the kitchen with all the seriousness of the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court. 

More than my siblings I loved to be in the kitchen getting into the mix. Stirring huge pots from atop a chair my aunts would have pulled up for me. Braiding cookies for dunking into espresso. Or, simply rolling out some bread dough for Sicilian sausage rolls [binulati]. There's a scar on my right foot from when at age four or five in Italy, I grabbed hold of a pan with simmering hot goat's milk for our breakfast of pane, latte e caffè [bread, milk and and coffee] an Italian breakfast still found on restaurant and hotel menus in Italy. This would be my first learning experience in the kitchen. It wouldn't be my last.

And, that's where my story begins. At this point in my life, I am a confident cook. Well, until last Wednesday evening, I had every confidence. But, alas the kitchen has the ability to humble even the most sought after chefs let alone a cook. However proficient she might imagine herself to be. You can never know everything about cooking, or the secrets of how to pull together a perfect meal. No matter how many times you have previously accomplished them. Showtime is showtime. You have to prove yourself again and again.

Last Wednesday we invited a few friends over and never in a million years would I have ever guessed what could and did go wrong. The evening was the coming together of two situations. One where a young friend of mine wanted to learn how to make my peas, mushrooms + prosciutto pasta and the other stemmed from a heartfelt desire to have some dear friends over to repay them for their previous gracious hospitality. We were to be eight for dinner. 

One of the many lessons of the evening. Make sure to start out strong appetizer/antipasti course and have a good dessert on hand because all hell may break out once the company arrives. 

You know you're in trouble when the simplest things are challenging. The two boxes of orecchiette I tried to get in one bowl to pour into the boiling pan of water went all over. But no worries two pounds was too much for eight. Another lesson always best to have more pasta on hand than one might need. 

Then, I asked Keith [who was in the weeds making Negroni's for four] to turn on the burner for the pasta. Fail! I never put any water in the covered pan. We would have made the 11pm news if I hadn't checked expecting to see boiling water. 

The evening proceeded in this way. I couldn't be relied upon to stir the pan of sautéing peas, scallions, prosciutto and mushrooms. All went flying in every direction. It was unseemly. I went out of my way to get a specific brand of prosciotto cotto con rosmarino at Gallucci's only to have it add a saltiness that was less than desirable. Thankfully, no one was getting blood work the next day. 

Frustrated also by the intermittent crunch underfoot from another orecchiette that escaped my brooms notice when I attempted clean-up.

Clearly, someone had put a hex or spell on my kitchen that night. Still nothing could have prepared me for the near disaster that lay in wait. The time had come to get the baked cod with caramelized onions and cherry tomatoes-baccala al forno into the oven. First, let me tell you about the aroma in my house that afternoon as I caramelized the onions in a white wine and butter reduction. This course would be redemption. 

Little did I know, there had been some reassembling of space in my refrigerator and my tray of secondi was now precariously resting atop some chilling wines and Champagne bottles. As I open the refrigerator door, the entire baking sheet with two premium whole fillets of panko encrusted cod siting atop perfectly caramelized onions, adorned with grape tomatoes parsley and lemon zest went sliding out of the refrigerator shelf and onto the floor. Had it not been for my young guest [experienced service industry pro] who swooped down from across the room to catch the tray and lift the parchment lined fish narrowly averting complete disaster. I've no idea who we would have called for carry-out. We did lose some tomatoes in the process but we still somehow had a secondi course. 

As I served the fish, in a state of disbelief and shock [possibly PTSD] from the evening's proceedings. I knew this would be a memorable meal. Not for its culinary success but as a bonding experience among friends. We'll laugh about the lack water in a pan that might have exploded, the utter lack of cooperation from the orrechiete, the peas and mushrooms who wouldn't stay in the pan and the fish that wasn't done swimming for some time to come. 

Throughout the night I would notice my husband and guests enjoying the evening. And, seriously what else matters. A successful evening depends more than on the sum of the parts. Much depends on the quality of your guests. Mine were complimentary, polite and overwhelmingly generous bringing us the finest wine an Amarone [on hold for our next gathering], filetto di chingale [brought back from Tuscany on a recent trip] and the loveliest floral bouquets. Ever grateful to my young friend who not only saved the cod but was everywhere that evening; serving, clearing, helping. She didn't leave until she washed all of the larger serving platters which were nearly half her weight. Not that mean people have a place at our table, but still. How wonderful to know such kind and generous people. As I looked over my photos from the evening I noticed there aren't any of the primi or secondi course. Highly unusual! But, then, so was the entire night. Made more memorable by some unusual occurrences and good friends.

Table is set

Table for eight, no waiting

Lace-cap hydrangea in a bowl

Roasted sweet red peppers and eggplant

Caramelized onions in a buttery wine reduction

Flowers from Candace + Mark's garden

Flowers found on my vanity in my bedroom when I went to bed

My hero, Candace

Antipasto

Charcuterie, if you prefer

Charcuterie, detail

Tiramisu

Amalgamato: Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner...

Amalgamato: Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner...: Arcadian Food & Drink  has been open for little over three months and we have enjoyed some memorable dinners there in that short time....

Amalgamato: Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner...

Amalgamato: Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner...: Arcadian Food & Drink  has been open for little over three months and we have enjoyed some memorable dinners there in that short time....

Arcadian's Middle West Spirits OYO Cocktail Dinner

Arcadian Food & Drink has been open for little over three months and we have enjoyed some memorable dinners there in that short time. From the seafood tower and caviar tasting before a Joe Jackson concert to a simple break for a pizza and some tempting happy hour turkey wings. One of its greatest features is a flexible menu that allows for nearly every occasion (not to mention the most reasonable price on a bottle Dom Perignon in the 216). The versatile, well-planned menu also attempts to address the Gordon Square area's disparate incomes as it continues to grow as an entertainment district. There is an early and late night happy hour, and some well-priced Detroit-style pizza and fried chicken on the regular menu. This week, we discovered they can also deliver a flawless prix fixe cocktail dinner.

Caviar Tasting 

Seafood Tower

Oysters Rockefeller 

Happy Hour Turkey Wings 

In celebration of  “Cocktail Week Cleveland,” Arcadian collaborated with OYO Middle West Spirits. Thomas Haywood presented OYO’s product in a knowledgeable and entertaining manner. Jeffrey Rowe, Arcadian’s Bar Manager, and Erica Coffee created five imaginative cocktails that took OYO’s spirits to new heights. In the kitchen, Rebecca Hess, Chef de Cuisine, and her staff provided a menu with complementary flavors. The result was a cohesive, well-paired cocktail dinner. Most restaurants can do some fine improvisational special dinners. We’ve been to many over the years; generally they will only offer the special menu for the evening. On this Wednesday evening, Arcadian offered this special dinner on their second floor while serving their regular menu on the first. Running both through one kitchen can be challenging. They rose to the occasion: our dinner was exceptional, the pairings were creative, and the value [$50 per], quality and service were indisputable.

OYO Middle West Spirits - Photo: Thomas Haywood

To get things underway, an “amuse booze” consisting of prosecco, OYO Stone Fruit Vodka, Carpano Bianco and Lemon Falernum Gelee greeted us as we were seated. The fresh lavender and thyme sprigs lent the perfect herbal notes to this finely crafted, albeit potent, aperitif. 

Amuse Booze - Photo: Thomas Haywood

The mood in the room was already festive as the Smoked Mussel Shooter came out with a couple of flawless smoked mussels along with a light, crispy, slightly salty cracker. The pairing with OYO Un-Aged Rye Whiskey, herb-infused Dolin Dry, squash and yellow pepper, was not only a complement to the briny appetizer but a new riff on the classic Bloody Mary.

Smoked Mussel Shooter 

A rich, velvety course of scrambled eggs, oyster and caviar followed. The crispy fried oyster and those creamy eggs married beautifully. I was excited to hear that this dish will be available on their regular menu and brunch menus by month’s end. I look forward to enjoying it again soon. The companion cocktail may have been my favorite of the evening, but that’s bound to happen when a drink includes vodka, limoncello, spiced Carpano Bianco and tantalizing smoked olives.

Scrambled Eggs, Oyster, Caviar

OYO Vodka, Limoncello, Spiced Carpano Bianco, smoked olives 

An area where I’ve always felt our local culinary scene could stand some improvement is in the availability of fresh pasta. The garganelli that were served in the clam garganelli, anchovy and bacon dish were reminiscent of the delicate, light pastas I’ve enjoyed in Italy. The genius of this briny dish was that it wasn’t overwhelmed by either the anchovy or bacon — two strong ingredients deftly kept in check to buoy the clams rather than sink them. The paired cocktail’s charred lemon, barrel-aged maple syrup and cider soothed the dark OYO Pumpernickel Rye, creating a perfect layering of flavors and viscosity. 

Clam Garganelli Anchovie, Bacon 

OYO Dark Pumpernickel Rye, Barrel-Aged Maple Syrup, charred lemon, Bent Ladder Heirloom Cider 

The pork shank, spaetzle and fennel was undeniably a salute to the coming fall season — as warm and comforting as a favorite sweater. The expertly braised pork was fork-tender and had a luxurious texture. Author Calvin Trillin once wrote that Thanksgiving should be about eating your favorite dish. He insisted he would be more thankful if he could enjoy his favorite Chinese carry-out instead. There is no question that Arcadian’s pork shank dish would be my choice this year. A Germanic-style osso bucco for pork. It too will be on their regular menu soon. The complementary cocktail only enhanced the autumnal aesthetic. If the pork was a comfortable sweater than the cocktail was the perfect pair of warm, suede boots. OYO Wheat Whiskey added a smooth, creamy texture to the Fernet Branca and the roasted pecan-apple shrub. They could probably sell those savory "Arcadian" crackers alongside the crisps served with the first course. They were addicting at first bite.

Pork Shank, Spaetzle, Fennel Photo: Leo Jeffries

OYO 'Oloroso' Wheat Whiskey, Fernet Branca Roasted Pecan-Apple Shrub

This is when you actually want a devil tending to every detail, like a savory cracker with an “A” for “Arcadian.” Especially when the devil is CIA-trained Erica Coffee who lent some creative assistance to the menu too. She saved her best for last: her butterscotch pumpkin cake was the perfect finish, served with a potent blend of OYO Barrel Aged Honey Vanilla Vodka, chai tea, whipped cream and nutmeg. Butterscotch is one of the first "American" flavors I was captivated by when I came from Italy at age five. It did not disappoint here. The pumpkin married with the butterscotch, enhancing it with rich sweet overtones. 

Butterscotch Pumpkin Cake

OYO Barrel-Aged Honey Vanilla Vodka, chai tea, whipped cream, nutmeg 

All in all, it was a splendid evening, pulled off by a talented team of professionals both in the kitchen and behind the bar, featuring great product — not the least of which were the OYO Whiskeys and Vodkas. Each course was better than the last and there were no weak links. It is no wonder that Arcadian Food and Drink has become another favorite refuge.

Our consummate host, David Hridel

From L to R, Rebecca Hess, Chef de Cuisine; Matt Snyder Sous Chef; David Hridel, FOH Manager; Tanasha Robertson; Erica Coffee; Thomas Haywood, Middle West Spirits Rep; Alyssa Murray; Alfonso Cody; Sadly missing is Jeffrey Rowe, Bar & Beverage Manager [someone has to keep serving the bar] - Photo: Leo Jeffries

Thomas Haywood Middle West Spirits Rep - Photo: Leo Jeffries

Amalgamato: Eric Williams to Compete on Guy's Grocery Games, N...

Amalgamato: Eric Williams to Compete on Guy's Grocery Games, N...: Eric Williams of Momocho and El Carnicero (among others) will test his luck and talent Sunday, January 17th on “Guy’s Grocery Games” wh...

Eric Williams to Compete on Guy's Grocery Games, New Broadcast Date

Eric Williams of Momocho and El Carnicero (among others) will test his luck and talent Sunday, January 17th on “Guy’s Grocery Games” which airs on Sunday evenings at 8pm on the Food Network.

Guy Fieri chose 16 of his favorite “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” (DDD) chefs to compete in a five-week tournament with winnings to support local charity/charities, purchase new equipment for their restaurants, pay off any debt or a family vacation.

The series began this past Sunday, January 3rd and will conclude with the championship on January 31. The tournament features four talented-chefs from DDD episodes. They compete head-to-head each week at a chance to win 20,000 dollars while showcasing their unique cuisines and personalities. The four winners meet in a final championship round for an opportunity to win an additional 20,000 dollars and the chance to be proclaimed “Champion of Guy’s Grocery Games.”

Eric Williams

“It’s a mash-up of Grocery Games, Chopped and Guy’s huge, twisted personality. I’m representing El Carnicero and Momocho. I was excited and honored to participate. I understood I had the chance to gain more exposure for the restaurants, shine the spotlight on Cleveland and possibly win some cash for some charities. As a fan of the show, my goal was to showcase my restaurants for as long as I could. Especially, since the first Chef was eliminated in the first 15 minutes. Hopefully, I can make Cleveland proud and bring home a winner.” Says, Eric Williams.

Fieri, for his part, does what he can to increase the pressure and challenge of the competition through a series of demands. He selects the entrée for each chef to prepare. Contestants are under the gun to shop for their ingredients in an actual grocery store and to prepare the dish in 30 minutes.

“Guy increases the pressure by throwing in an ingredient from a claw machine, making a sandwich with ingredients not in the dairy or bread aisle or rolling the dice to see what piece of kitchen equipment we can use. It’s completely exhausting both physically and mentally!” Says, Eric Williams.

Although, Williams could not discuss how he fared in the contest, he did share how he intends to utilize his winnings.

“Recently Heather and I purchased a home and during some remodeling this past spring the basement completely flooded. We had to start all over and waterproof the house. Part of the money would help to offset that debt. I also hope to upgrade some restaurant equipment. Momocho is nearly 10 years old and El Carnicero opened with a lot of used equipment. I also intend to help those who really need help. We’ve often helped our local churches, shelters and soup kitchens. Those efforts were always short term and limited by what we could afford at the time. If given the opportunity, I can help a lot more people.” Says, Eric Williams.